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When we have confirmed access, the full article content will load.<\/div><\/div><div id=\"fullBleedHeaderContent\"><header class=\"css-66zpc e3rgvcb0\"><div class=\"css-gq7jix\"><div data-testid=\"imageblock-wrapper\"><figure class=\"sizeFull layoutHorizontal css-1wyt60f\" aria-label=\"media\" role=\"group\"><div class=\"css-18h6vyh\" data-testid=\"imageContainer-children-Image\"><picture><source media=\"(max-width: 599px) and (min-device-pixel-ratio: 3),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 3dppx),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 288dpi)\" srcSet=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;disable=upscale&amp;width=1800\"\/><source media=\"(max-width: 599px) and (min-device-pixel-ratio: 2),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 2dppx),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 192dpi)\" srcSet=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;disable=upscale&amp;width=1200\"\/><source media=\"(max-width: 599px) and (min-device-pixel-ratio: 1),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 1dppx),(max-width: 599px) and (min-resolution: 96dpi)\" srcSet=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;disable=upscale&amp;width=600\"\/><img alt=\"A white plate with a beef stew on one half and elbow macaroni on the other half, with the words \u201cBouillon Chartier\u201d on the rim.\" class=\"css-mm25ji\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;disable=upscale\" srcSet=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp 600w,https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp 1024w,https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2025\/03\/09\/multimedia\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy\/00beef-Bourguignon-01-vqzl-copy-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&amp;auto=webp 2048w\" sizes=\"100vw\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\"\/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption data-testid=\"photoviewer-children-ImageCaption\" class=\"css-ktho12 e3rygrp0\"><span class=\"css-jevhma e13ogyst0\">Beef Bourguignon is seen in France as a hearty and affordable dish.<\/span><span class=\"css-14fe1uy e1z0qqy90\"><span class=\"css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0\">Credit...<\/span><span><span aria-hidden=\"false\">Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York 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class=\"css-72qxfg e1j3jvdr1\"><\/div><\/section><\/header><\/div><p class=\"css-1krtrpn e6idgb70\"><\/p><div class=\"css-1sojcmr ehdk2mb0\"><h1 id=\"link-1851307d\" class=\"css-185ahps e1h9rw200\" data-testid=\"headline\">High Prices Hit a French Classic: Beef Bourguignon<\/h1><\/div><p class=\"css-178vgup e1wiw3jv0\">Businesses across Europe, including restaurants in Paris that make the dish, are being squeezed by sticky inflation.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/header><div class=\"css-yi0xdk e89cr9k0\"><p class=\"css-11vzj2f\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"css-1f1w20n business\">Beef Bourguignon is seen in France as a hearty and affordable dish.<\/span><span class=\"css-14fe1uy e1z0qqy90\"><span class=\"css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0\">Credit...<\/span><span><span>Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/div><div id=\"sponsor-wrapper\" class=\"css-1hyfx7x\"><div id=\"sponsor-slug\" class=\"css-twqvxd\"><p>Supported by<\/p><\/div><a href=\"#after-sponsor\" 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epjyd6m2\"><div class=\"css-165eim7 ey68jwv0\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/by\/liz-alderman\" class=\"css-uwwqev\"><img alt=\"Liz Alderman\" title=\"Liz Alderman\" src=\"https:\/\/static01.nyt.com\/images\/2018\/10\/08\/multimedia\/author-liz-alderman\/author-liz-alderman-thumbLarge-v3.png\" class=\"css-dc6zx6 ey68jwv2\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"css-233int epjyd6m1\"><p class=\"css-4anu6l e1jsehar1\"><span class=\"byline-prefix\">By <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/by\/liz-alderman\" class=\"last-byline css-ojhyzr e1jsehar0\" itemProp=\"name\">Liz Alderman<\/a><\/p><div class=\"css-gqryk5 epjyd6m0\"><div id=\"enhanced-byline\" class=\"css-8atqhb\"><p class=\"css-1hyokyd e1wtpvyy0\">Liz Alderman, who covers the European economy, reported from Paris.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><ul class=\"css-1cgskve epjyd6m4\"><li class=\"css-ccw2r3 epjyd6m3\"><time dateTime=\"2025-03-09T04:52:44-04:00\" class=\"css-1gu861y e16638kd2\"><span class=\"css-1sbuyqj e16638kd3\">March 9, 2025<\/span><span class=\"css-233int e16638kd4\">Updated <span class=\"css-epvm6\">4:52 a.m. ET<\/span><\/span><\/time><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div><section name=\"articleBody\" class=\"meteredContent css-1r7ky0e\"><div class=\"css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn\" data-testid=\"companionColumn-0\"><div class=\"css-53u6y8\"><p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">At Le Bouillon Chartier in Paris, the recipe for a perfect beef Bourguignon involves beef, carrots, wine, butter and \u201ccoquillettes,\u201d a tiny macaroni-shaped pasta. It is cooked for at least three hours. And it must be affordable, so the price cannot be more than 10 euros a dish.<\/p><p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">Since 1896, the belle epoque eatery has been Parisians\u2019 destination for cheap French fare. It\u2019s a boisterous canteen with meals that give energy for the day, where someone on a living wage can eat for less than what they earn in an hour.<\/p><p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">But rarely in Bouillon Chartier\u2019s storied history has it been as hard to keep costs under control as it is today.<\/p><\/div><aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"><\/aside><\/div><div data-testid=\"Dropzone-1\"><\/div><div class=\"css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn\" data-testid=\"companionColumn-1\"><div class=\"css-53u6y8\"><p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">The elements that go into its beef Bourguignon, including electricity for the restaurant as well as wages for the bustling staff of servers and cooks, are 30 to 45 percent higher than they were five years ago, said Christophe Joulie, the restaurant\u2019s owner. And to maintain a<strong class=\"css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10\"> <\/strong>steady price for Bouillon Chartier\u2019s best-selling dish (which costs around $10.80), he has cut into the margins of his family-run business up to 20 percent.<\/p><\/div><aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"><\/aside><\/div><div data-testid=\"RelatedLinksBlock-3\"><div data-testid=\"lazy-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn\" data-testid=\"companionColumn-2\"><div class=\"css-53u6y8\"><p class=\"css-at9mc1 evys1bk0\">\u201cThe price of everything that went up essentially stayed up,\u201d Mr. Joulie said one recent weekday at the eatery in Paris\u2019s Ninth Arrondissement, one of three Bouillon Chartier locations in the city. A line nearly two blocks long had formed by 11:30 a.m., when the doors swing open for the lunch crowd. \u201cBut our fight is to always offer a decent meal at a decent price.\u201d<\/p><\/div><aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"><\/aside><\/div><div data-testid=\"InteractiveBlock-5\"><section data-testid=\"inline-interactive\" id=\"beef-plate-embed\" data-id=\"100000010034963\" data-source-id=\"100000010034963\" class=\"interactive-content interactive-size-scoop css-1w71maw\"><div class=\"css-17ih8de interactive-body\" slug=\"beef-plate-embed\" data-sourceid=\"100000010034963\" id=\"embed-id-100000010034963\">\n      <script>window.registerInteractive && window.registerInteractive(\"100000010034963\");<\/script>\n    <!-- birdkit: do not modify this file -->\n<head>\n\t\n\t\t<link href=\"https:\/\/static01.nytimes.com\/newsgraphics\/2025-03-06-beef-borg-photos\/d08babeb-427c-4a68-bc00-5cb9d0316dd1\/_assets\/_app\/immutable\/assets\/2.D0HIB0Ra.css\" 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style=\"\" aria-label=\"graphic\"><!--[--><div class=\"g-block g-block-margin svelte-rhgw2n g-margin-inline\" style=\"\"><div class=\"g-block-width g-max-width-body svelte-rhgw2n\"><!----><!----><!----> <!----><!--[--><div class=\"g-wrapper_hed g-text-align-left svelte-1yj9fcz\"><!--[--><h3 class=\"g-heading svelte-1yj9fcz g-has-leadin\"><!---->How the Cost of Ingredients Has Jumped<!----><\/h3><!--]--> <!--[--><p class=\"g-leadin svelte-1yj9fcz\"><!---->The changes in price from five years ago<!----><\/p><!--]--><\/div><!--]--><!----> <!----><!----><!----><\/div><\/div><!--]--> <!--[!--><!--]--> <div class=\"g-block g-block-margin svelte-rhgw2n g-margin-inline\" style=\"\"><div style=\"max-width: 720px;\" class=\"g-block-width g-max-width-720px svelte-rhgw2n\"><!----><!--[!--><!--]--> <div class=\"g-wrapper_main-content svelte-dk6paf \"><!--[!--><!--]--> <div class=\"g-wrapper_main_content_slot svelte-dk6paf\"><!----><!--[!--><!----><div class=\"g-media \" 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class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+30%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai0-5\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 50.24%; left: 15.9336%; margin-left: -13.3333%; width: 26.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Carrots\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai0-6\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 53.12%; left: 15.937%; margin-left: -13.3333%; width: 26.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+20%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai0-7\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 87.04%; left: 83.9336%; margin-left: -13.3333%; width: 26.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Beef\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai0-8\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 89.92%; left: 83.937%; margin-left: -13.3333%; width: 26.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+16%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\n\\t\\u003C!-- Artboard: 600 -->\\n\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\tid=\\\"g-plate-600\\\"\\n\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-artboard\\\"\\n\\t\\tstyle=\\\"width: 600px; height: 411px\\\"\\n\\t\\tdata-aspect-ratio=\\\"1.46\\\"\\n\\t\\tdata-min-width=\\\"600\\\"\\n\\t\\tdata-max-width=\\\"719\\\"\\n\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv style=\\\"\\\">\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cimg\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-plate-600-img\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-plate-img g-aiImg\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\talt=\\\"\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tdata-src=\\\"https:\/\/static01.nytimes.com\/newsgraphics\/2025-03-06-beef-borg-photos\/d08babeb-427c-4a68-bc00-5cb9d0316dd1\/_assets\/plate-600.jpg\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tsrc=\\\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhCgAKAIAAAB8fHwAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAAKAAoAAAIIhI+py+0PYysAOw==\\\"\\n\\t\\t\/>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-1\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 2.4331%; left: 36.3688%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Carrots\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-2\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 7.056%; left: 36.371%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+20%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-3\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 8.7591%; left: 87.7655%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Butter\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-4\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 13.1387%; left: 87.7676%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+30%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-5\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 83.6983%; left: 84.9321%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Pasta\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-6\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 83.6983%; left: 16.3688%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Beef\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-7\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 88.0779%; left: 84.9343%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+22%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai1-8\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 88.3212%; left: 16.371%; margin-left: -8.3333%; width: 16.6667%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+16%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\n\\t\\u003C!-- Artboard: 720 -->\\n\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\tid=\\\"g-plate-720\\\"\\n\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-artboard\\\"\\n\\t\\tstyle=\\\"width: 720px; height: 411px\\\"\\n\\t\\tdata-aspect-ratio=\\\"1.752\\\"\\n\\t\\tdata-min-width=\\\"720\\\"\\n\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv style=\\\"\\\">\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cimg\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-plate-720-img\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-plate-img g-aiImg\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\talt=\\\"\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tdata-src=\\\"https:\/\/static01.nytimes.com\/newsgraphics\/2025-03-06-beef-borg-photos\/d08babeb-427c-4a68-bc00-5cb9d0316dd1\/_assets\/plate-720.jpg\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tsrc=\\\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhCgAKAIAAAB8fHwAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAAKAAoAAAIIhI+py+0PYysAOw==\\\"\\n\\t\\t\/>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-1\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 3.8929%; left: 46.9838%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Carrots\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-2\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 6.326%; left: 87.9071%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Pasta\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-3\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 8.5158%; left: 47.0401%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+20%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-4\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 10.9489%; left: 87.9634%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+22%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-5\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 83.6983%; left: 90.2682%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Butter\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-6\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 87.1046%; left: 18.3153%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle0\\\">Beef\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-7\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 88.3212%; left: 90.3245%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+30%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\t\\u003Cdiv\\n\\t\\t\\tid=\\\"g-ai2-8\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tclass=\\\"g-Layer_1 g-aiAbs\\\"\\n\\t\\t\\tstyle=\\\"top: 91.7275%; left: 18.3717%; margin-left: -6.9444%; width: 13.8889%\\\"\\n\\t\\t>\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-pstyle1\\\">+16%\\u003C\/p>\\n\\t\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\t\\u003C\/div>\\n\\u003C\/div>\\n\\n\\u003Cscript type=\\\"text\/javascript\\\">\\n\\t(function (containerId, opts) {\\n\\t\\tvar nameSpace = opts.namespace || '';\\n\\t\\tvar containers = 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{\\n\\t\\t\\t\/\/ support duplicate ids on the page\\n\\t\\t\\treturn selectChildren('.ai2html-responsive', document).filter(function (el) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (el.getAttribute('id') != id) return false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (el.classList.contains('ai2html-resizer')) return false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tel.classList.add('ai2html-resizer');\\n\\t\\t\\t\\treturn true;\\n\\t\\t\\t});\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\/\/ Replace blank placeholder image with actual image\\n\\t\\tfunction updateImgSrc(img) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar src = img.getAttribute('data-src');\\n\\t\\t\\tif (src && img.getAttribute('src') != src) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\timg.setAttribute('src', src);\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction updateVideoSrc(el) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar src = el.getAttribute('data-src');\\n\\t\\t\\tif (src && !el.hasAttribute('src')) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tel.setAttribute('src', src);\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction elementInView(el) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar bounds = el.getBoundingClientRect();\\n\\t\\t\\treturn bounds.top \\u003C window.innerHeight && bounds.bottom > 0;\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction selectChildren(selector, parent) {\\n\\t\\t\\treturn parent ? 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It is cooked for at least three hours. And it must be affordable, so the price cannot be more than 10 euros a dish.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":0},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Since 1896, the belle epoque eatery has been Parisians\u2019 destination for cheap French fare. 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A line nearly two blocks long had formed by 11:30 a.m., when the doors swing open for the lunch crowd. \u201cBut our fight is to always offer a decent meal at a decent price.\u201d\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":5},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"The challenges facing Mr. Joulie reflect the broader impact of sticky inflation across Europe. Inflation in the euro area climbed to 2.4 percent in February after cooling last year. 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update);\\n\\t\\t\\twindow.addEventListener('resize', onResize);\\n\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F NYT Scoop-specific code\\n\\t\\t\\tif (opts.setup) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\topts.setup(container).on('cleanup', cleanup);\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\\tfunction cleanup() {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tdocument.removeEventListener('DOMContentLoaded', update);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\twindow.removeEventListener('resize', onResize);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (observer) observer.disconnect();\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\\tfunction update() {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tvar artboards = selectChildren('.' + nameSpace + 'artboard[data-min-width]', container),\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\twidth = Math.round(container.getBoundingClientRect().width);\\n\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F Set artboard visibility based on container width\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tartboards.forEach(function (el) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tvar minwidth = el.getAttribute('data-min-width'),\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tmaxwidth = el.getAttribute('data-max-width');\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tif (+minwidth \\u003C= width && (+maxwidth \\u003E= width || maxwidth === null)) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tif (!waiting) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tselectChildren('.' + nameSpace + 'aiImg', el).forEach(updateImgSrc);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tselectChildren('video', el).forEach(updateVideoSrc);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tel.style.display = 'block';\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t} else {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tel.style.display = 'none';\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t});\\n\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F Initialize lazy loading on first call\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (waiting && !observer) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tif (elementInView(container)) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\twaiting = false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tupdate();\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t} else {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tobserver = new IntersectionObserver(onIntersectionChange, { rootMargin: '800px' });\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tobserver.observe(container);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\\tfunction onIntersectionChange(entries) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F There may be multiple entries relating to the same container\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F (captured at different times)\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tvar isIntersecting = entries.reduce(function (memo, entry) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\treturn memo || entry.isIntersecting;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t}, false);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (isIntersecting) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\twaiting = false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F update: don't remove -- we need the observer to trigger an update\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F when a hidden map becomes visible after user interaction\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F (e.g. when an accordion menu or tab opens)\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F observer.disconnect();\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F observer = null;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tupdate();\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction findContainers(id) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F support duplicate ids on the page\\n\\t\\t\\treturn selectChildren('.ai2html-responsive', document).filter(function (el) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (el.getAttribute('id') != id) return false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (el.classList.contains('ai2html-resizer')) return false;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tel.classList.add('ai2html-resizer');\\n\\t\\t\\t\\treturn true;\\n\\t\\t\\t});\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F Replace blank placeholder image with actual image\\n\\t\\tfunction updateImgSrc(img) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar src = img.getAttribute('data-src');\\n\\t\\t\\tif (src && img.getAttribute('src') != src) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\timg.setAttribute('src', src);\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction updateVideoSrc(el) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar src = el.getAttribute('data-src');\\n\\t\\t\\tif (src && !el.hasAttribute('src')) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tel.setAttribute('src', src);\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction elementInView(el) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar bounds = el.getBoundingClientRect();\\n\\t\\t\\treturn bounds.top \\u003C window.innerHeight && bounds.bottom \\u003E 0;\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\tfunction selectChildren(selector, parent) {\\n\\t\\t\\treturn parent ? Array.prototype.slice.call(parent.querySelectorAll(selector)) : [];\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\n\\t\\t\\u002F\\u002F based on underscore.js\\n\\t\\tfunction throttle(func, wait) {\\n\\t\\t\\tvar timeout = null,\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tprevious = 0;\\n\\t\\t\\tfunction run() {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tprevious = Date.now();\\n\\t\\t\\t\\ttimeout = null;\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tfunc();\\n\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\treturn function () {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tvar remaining = wait - (Date.now() - previous);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\tif (remaining \\u003C= 0 || remaining \\u003E wait) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tclearTimeout(timeout);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\trun();\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t} else if (!timeout) {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\ttimeout = setTimeout(run, remaining);\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t}\\n\\t\\t\\t};\\n\\t\\t}\\n\\t})('g-plate-box', { namespace: 'g-', setup: window.setupInteractive || window.getComponent });\\n\\u003C\\u002Fscript\\u003E\\n\\u003C!-- End ai2html - 2025-03-06 07:48 --\\u003E\\n\\u003C!----\\u003E \\u003C!--[!--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E \\u003C!--[!--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E \\u003C!--[--\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\\"g-block g-block-margin svelte-rhgw2n g-margin-inline\\\" style=\\\"\\\"\\u003E\\u003Cdiv style=\\\"max-width: 720px;\\\" class=\\\"g-block-width g-max-width-720px svelte-rhgw2n\\\"\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E \\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!--[--\\u003E\\u003Cdiv class=\\\"g-wrapper_meta g-text-align-left svelte-v3m00m\\\"\\u003E\\u003C!--[!--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E \\u003C!--[--\\u003E\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-source svelte-v3m00m\\\"\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003ESource: Insee\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fp\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E \\u003C!--[!--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E \\u003C!--[--\\u003E\\u003Cp class=\\\"g-credit svelte-v3m00m\\\"\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003EPhotograph by Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fp\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E \\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Fdiv\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C\\u002Ffigure\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!----\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E \\u003C!--[!--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\u003C!--]--\\u003E\\n\\t\\t\\t\\n\\t\\t\\t\\u003Cscript\\u003E\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t{\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t__sveltekit_3uwbld = {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tbase: new URL(\\\".\\\", location).pathname.slice(0, -1)\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t};\\n\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tconst element = document.currentScript.parentElement.dataset.birdkitHydrate ? document.currentScript.parentElement : document.querySelector('[data-birdkit-hydrate=\\\"73a5df0005f630e1\\\"]');\\n\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tPromise.all([\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\timport(\\\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nytimes.com\\u002Fnewsgraphics\\u002F2025-03-06-beef-borg-photos\\u002Fd08babeb-427c-4a68-bc00-5cb9d0316dd1\\u002F_assets\\u002F_app\\u002Fimmutable\\u002Fentry\\u002Fstart.DX7zAi8q.js\\\"),\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\timport(\\\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nytimes.com\\u002Fnewsgraphics\\u002F2025-03-06-beef-borg-photos\\u002Fd08babeb-427c-4a68-bc00-5cb9d0316dd1\\u002F_assets\\u002F_app\\u002Fimmutable\\u002Fentry\\u002Fapp.LzZKJrU0.js\\\")\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t]).then(([kit, app]) =\\u003E {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tkit.start(app, element, {\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tnode_ids: [0, 2],\\n\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\t\\tdata: [null,{\\\"type\\\":\\\"data\\\",\\\"data\\\":{body:[{type:\\\"graphic\\\",value:{media:{assetType:\\\"graphic\\\",assetSlug:\\\"plate.html\\\",breakpointName:void 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helvetica, sans-serif;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-weight: regular;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tline-height: 19px;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\topacity: 1;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tletter-spacing: 0em;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-size: 16px;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\ttext-align: left;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tcolor: rgb(0, 0, 0);\\\\n\\\\t\\\\ttext-transform: none;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tpadding-bottom: 0;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tpadding-top: 0;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tmix-blend-mode: normal;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-style: normal;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\theight: auto;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tposition: static;\\\\n\\\\t}\\\\n\\\\t#g-plate-600 .g-pstyle0 {\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-weight: 700;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\ttext-align: center;\\\\n\\\\t}\\\\n\\\\t#g-plate-600 .g-pstyle1 {\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-weight: 700;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tline-height: 25px;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-size: 21px;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\ttext-align: center;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tcolor: rgb(173, 20, 20);\\\\n\\\\t}\\\\n\\\\t#g-plate-720 {\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tposition: relative;\\\\n\\\\t\\\\toverflow: hidden;\\\\n\\\\t}\\\\n\\\\t#g-plate-720 p {\\\\n\\\\t\\\\tfont-family: nyt-franklin, arial, 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Wages, which make up about 40 percent of the price of a beef Bourguignon, have risen 15 to 20 percent in that period as workers demanded higher salaries to keep pace with inflation.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":true,\"bad\":false,\"index\":14},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"\u201cEvery morning I go see my purchasing director to figure out what we can buy,\u201d Mr. Jolie said. \u201cIt\u2019s like playing the stock market.\u201d\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":true,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":true,\"adsMobile\":true,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":15},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Le Bouillon Chartier started out as a popular canteen, made famous in Paris over a century ago by the Chartier brothers, who offered broth \u2014 or bouillon \u2014 and hearty fare to blue-collar laborers. 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Huge mirrors hung on patinated walls inspired Balthazar, the bustling French restaurant in New York City.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":21},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"To keep prices down, Mr. Joulie must work with volume. He orders 1.5 tons of beef a week just for the beef Bourguignon dish at the three bouillons, which serve over 4,000 diners a day. 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Diners spend an average of 20 euros per ticket.\",\"timesTags\":[],\"uri\":\"nyt:\\u002F\\u002Fimage\\u002Fe066880e-b851-5bae-9e1a-c40311c8c218\",\"url\":\"\\u002Fimagepages\\u002F2025\\u002F03\\u002F09\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-08-vqzl.html\"},\"size\":\"LARGE\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":true,\"index\":25},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Mostly, he has opted to take the financial hit out of his company\u2019s margins. \u201cWe can do that because we are a family-run enterprise, not beholden to the stock market or investors,\u201d he said.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":true,\"bad\":false,\"index\":26},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"\u201cUntil now it has worked,\u201d he added, gesturing to the phalanx of diners sitting elbow to elbow in the immense hall, adorned with a giant fresco made by the painter Germont in 1929 to pay his overdue tab. Twenty waiters in black vests and white aprons twirled around tables, taking orders and zipping to the kitchen. Glasses clinked and silverware tapped on white plates emblazoned with the Chartier emblem, laid atop a paper table-covering where the waiters wrote out the bill with a ballpoint pen.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":true,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":27},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Despite the buzz, Mr. Joulie said the scourge of inflation simmered beneath the surface for every diner. Traffic in his eateries, and at restaurants and bistros around France, slowed after a post-pandemic surge. By the end of 2023, persistent high prices for energy and food had deepened a cost-of-living crisis; even in the bouillon, customers ordered less.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":true,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":true,\"index\":28},{\"__typename\":\"ImageBlock\",\"media\":{\"__typename\":\"Image\",\"altText\":\"A vast wood-paneled restaurant space is packed with diners and employees. 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A large painted mural is behind them.\",\"caption\":{\"__typename\":\"TextOnlyDocumentBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Mr. Joulie was forced to remove the beef Bourguignon for one week in January because of a jump in beef prices.\"}]}],\"text\":\"Mr. Joulie was forced to remove the beef Bourguignon for one week in January because of a jump in beef prices.\"},\"credit\":\"Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times\",\"crops\":[{\"__typename\":\"ImageCrop\",\"renditions\":[{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":400,\"name\":\"articleLarge\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-articleLarge.jpg\",\"width\":600},{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":433,\"name\":\"popup\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-popup.jpg\",\"width\":650},{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":683,\"name\":\"jumbo\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-jumbo.jpg\",\"width\":1024},{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":1365,\"name\":\"superJumbo\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-superJumbo.jpg\",\"width\":2048}]},{\"__typename\":\"ImageCrop\",\"renditions\":[{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":150,\"name\":\"thumbLarge\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-thumbLarge.jpg\",\"width\":150}]},{\"__typename\":\"ImageCrop\",\"renditions\":[{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":127,\"name\":\"articleInline\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-articleInline.jpg\",\"width\":190}]},{\"__typename\":\"ImageCrop\",\"renditions\":[{\"__typename\":\"ImageRendition\",\"height\":1800,\"name\":\"mobileMasterAt3x\",\"url\":\"https:\\u002F\\u002Fstatic01.nyt.com\\u002Fimages\\u002F2025\\u002F02\\u002F20\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg\",\"width\":1800}]}],\"id\":\"SW1hZ2U6bnl0Oi8vaW1hZ2UvNGFhMzg0NDUtMGU3My01MjA2LWJkZGUtMzdkM2E0MmMyNDEy\",\"imageType\":\"photo\",\"legacyHtmlCaption\":\"Mr. Joulie was forced to remove the beef Bourguignon for one week in January because of a jump in beef prices.\",\"timesTags\":[],\"uri\":\"nyt:\\u002F\\u002Fimage\\u002F4aa38445-0e73-5206-bdde-37d3a42c2412\",\"url\":\"\\u002Fimagepages\\u002F2025\\u002F03\\u002F09\\u002Fmultimedia\\u002F00beef-Bourguignon-09-vqzl.html\"},\"size\":\"LARGE\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":true,\"bad\":true,\"index\":30},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Ali Belcacem and his friend, longtime regulars, polished off a \u20ac3.20 chocolate mousse after eating beef Bourguignon and andouillette, or a tripe sausage, washing it all down with a glass of house red wine. \u201cWe don\u2019t eat out as much as before,\u201d Mr. Belcacem said. The men, retirees who live nearby, were on a fixed income and have been squeezed financially, especially over the last year and a half, by stubbornly high bills for electricity and food, as well as clothing and gas.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":true,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":31},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"\u201cWhen they say inflation has come down, that\u2019s not the reality,\u201d Mr. Belcacem said. \u201cOur shopping basket for some items is up by 40 percent.\u201d They treated themselves to a midday meal at Chartier, because it was hearty and economical.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"Dropzone\",\"adsDesktop\":false,\"adsDesktopHoldout\":false,\"adsHybrid\":false,\"adsMobile\":false,\"adsMobileHoldout\":false,\"bad\":false,\"index\":32},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"Mr. Joulie scanned the dining room and eyed Mr. Belcacem as he paid his bill.\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"},{\"__typename\":\"ParagraphBlock\",\"content\":[{\"__typename\":\"TextInline\",\"formats\":[],\"text\":\"\u201cHigh prices are hurting many people,\u201d Mr. Joulie said. \u201cNow more than ever, it\u2019s important to keep things affordable.\u201d\"}],\"textAlign\":\"LEFT\"}]},\"storyFormat\":\"Article\",\"storylines\":[{\"__typename\":\"AssociatedStoryline\",\"ruleName\":\"styln-business-general\",\"storyline\":{\"__typename\":\"Storyline\",\"context\":null,\"displayName\":\"Best of Business\",\"experimentalJsonBlob\":\"{\\\"data\\\":[{\\\"version\\\":1,\\\"type\\\":\\\"experimentalJsonBlob\\\",\\\"data\\\":[{\\\"version\\\":1,\\\"type\\\":\\\"guide\\\",\\\"data\\\":{\\\"title\\\":\\\"Explore Our Business and Tech Coverage\\\",\\\"leadIn\\\":\\\"Dive deeper into the people, issues and trends shaping the worlds of business and technology.\\\",\\\"sections\\\":[{\\\"section\\\":[{\\\"type\\\":\\\"bulletedList\\\",\\\"value\\\":[\\\"\\u003Cstrong\\u003EHow Altman Won Over Trump: \\u003C\\u002Fstrong\\u003EAfter helping President Trump get elected, Elon Musk was poised to dominate America\u2019s A.I. policies. 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